Steps to Take Now to Be a Home Owner in 2013

Buying your first home is a process, not an event, so you have to have an action plan that will get you through this process with your finances and sanity intact.

Here are 5 things you can do now to help you get ready to buy your first home in 2013:

1) Test drive the lifestyle – Owning costs more than renting and most first-time home buyers find they will have to make some lifestyle sacrifices. It might be as simple as cutting out that daily mocha grande frappuccino or packing a lunch two or three days a week. Whatever those sacrifices may be, you might want to find out if you can adjust BEFORE you buy instead of after.

2) Get your financial house in order – Lenders are examining loan applications more closely than ever before. Even with interest rates at record lows getting your first time home buyer loan is not getting any easier, but it’s not the horror story that the media portrays IF you’ve chosen a lender because they know what they’re doing and not because they have the cheapest rate you could find.

     * How to improve you credit score

3) Check out the first time home buyer incentives –  There are many first-time home buyer incentives such as down payment assistance programs and tax rebates.
    
     * contact me to find out the various incentives for first-time home buyers

4) Find a Lender and Realtor who understand first-time home buyer programs.
This is probably backwards from the way you you’ve heard it’s done, but your chances of being successful in your home search increase dramatically when you know how you’re going to pay for your first home before you find it.

You need a a REALTOR who represents YOU!, not the seller, bank or builder.

5) Quit procrastinating! – If you’ve made the decision that 2013 will be the year you become a first-time home buyer, get up off the couch and get started. While interest rates have remained near record lows, home values have been creeping up for the past year and rents are increasing at an even faster pace, so it’s not getting any cheaper!

     * Planning ahead for home ownership

We have helped many first time home buyers and their families make the right decision when buying their first home.

They all have one thing in common, they contacted me.

Avoiding Basement Flooding - Everything you need to know....

Basement flooding is unfortunately a common occurrence in many parts of Canada. But the good news is that many types of basement flooding may be avoided. This article explains some of the practical steps you can take to avoid basement flooding.

How Serious Is Basement Flooding?

Basement flooding is now being recognized as a potentially serious problem. There are many negative consequences associated with basement flooding, above and beyond the inconvenient mess and disruption of household routine. Research cites the following impacts:

• Chronically wet houses are linked to an increase in respiratory problems.
• Frequent occurrences of basement flooding can result in long-term damage to the building and equipment that may not be covered by insurance.
• Insurance rates may rise to compensate for repeated basement flooding claims, and/or the minimum deductible may be increased significantly.
• Property value may depreciate because the basement is prone to frequent flooding.

Before appropriate measures can be taken, it is important to identify the causes of basement flooding. These range from problems originating in the individual dwelling to problems associated with the municipal sewer systems that serve entire communities.

Why Do Basements Flood?

Water can enter your basement for a number of reasons. Water in your basement is most likely to occur during periods of heavy rainfall, or when snow is melting rapidly during a spring thaw. In these cases, your basement can be wet because of:

• a leak or crack in your home’s basement walls;
• poor lot drainage;
• failure of the weeping tiles (foundation drains); and
• overflowing eavestroughs or leaking/plugged downspouts.

Basement flooding may also occur because of:

• a blocked connection between your home and the main sewer in the street;
• a back-up of wastewater in the sewer system (or a combination of wastewater and rainwater from the sanitary or combined sewer system); and
• failure of a sump pump (in some areas) used to pump weeping tile water.

Basements are also vulnerable to natural river flooding disasters, but these cannot be addressed by individual homeowners.

Flooding Basics

Municipalities attempt to prevent flooding by maintaining the public sewer system. Homeowners with private sewage systems (septic tank and field bed) can appreciate the need for regular maintenance, but unforeseen or accidental problems can occur in any type of system. Here is some municipal infrastructure terminology you should know:

Sanitary Sewer

A sanitary sewer is a pipe buried beneath the street that is designed to transport wastewater from your home. This consists of water from sanitary fixtures (toilets, sinks, etc.) and floor drains inside your house, and in some areas includes groundwater from weeping tiles around the foundation of your home.

Storm Sewer

A storm sewer is a pipe buried beneath the street that is designed to carry storm-related water runoff. Storm sewers are normally much larger than sanitary sewers because they are designed to carry much larger amounts of flow.

Sewer Backup

Extra storm-related water (from sources other than wastewater and groundwater) should flow into the storm sewer or soak slowly into the ground without entering the sanitary sewer. If excess storm water does enter the sanitary sewer system, it can overload this kind of system.
When the sewers are overloaded, the water level in the system rises above normal design levels, and this condition is referred to as “surcharge.” Basement flooding can occur if the home has sanitary fixtures or floor drains below the surcharge level

Practical Measures to Avoid Basement Flooding

Basement flooding problems are best diagnosed by working your way down from the eavestroughs and downspouts, to the lot and foundation drainage, and then to the plumbing system — both inside your home and beyond its connection to the municipal sewer system.

Eavestroughs and Downspouts

Water pours out of your eavestroughs into downspouts. If the downspouts are dumping the water right beside your foundation, it drains directly to the weeping tile and can easily overload your home’s drainage. Make sure downspouts extend at least 1.8 m (6 ft.) from your basement wall. Also, be sure the water does not drain toward your neighbour’s basement walls. It should drain away from your house toward the street, rear yard, or back lane. If your downspouts are connected to your home’s sewer system, or weeping tile, disconnect them.
Clean debris from eavestroughs regularly. If they overflow even when clean, replace them with larger size eavestroughs and downspouts.

Lot Grading

If the land around your home slopes in toward the foundation, rainwater heads right for the weeping tile around the basement and can overload your foundation drainage system. The land around many homes settles over time, and then slopes in toward the foundation. If your lot slopes inward, you’ll want to fill in and grade the lot so that, for at least 1.8 m (6 ft.) out from around the foundation, the land slopes away from your house.
Build up the ground around your house so that water drains away from your basement walls. Also, examine sidewalks, patios, decks and driveways. These can settle over time and cause water to drain back towards your basement walls

Extend downspouts so that water flows away from your house and does not collect next to the basement walls and windows.
Proper drainage helps to:

• reduce the amount of water flowing to your home’s sewer system and to the main sewer system, and lessen the risk of sewer backup;
• reduce water seepage into your home through basement windows and cracks in your basement walls;
• keep the moisture content of the soil around and under your house stable to reduce the chances of cracking and shifting. If water collects next to your basement, it can make its way to the footings that support the basement walls. The increased moisture may cause the footings to heave or settle; and
• extend the life of your sump pump by reducing the amount of work it has to do.

Be sure that any drainage improvements you make do not cause water to flow onto your neighbour’s property.

Floodproofing Devices

If your home drainage system or the neighbourhood’s drainage system overloads, you may still be able to prevent rain water and sewage from backing up into your basement by installing one or more floodproofing devices, such as sump pumps or back flow valves. Each installation is unique and some devices (back flow valves) may require a plumbing permit. Check with your municipal office or a qualified plumber before you proceed with any installation

Sump Pit Drainage System

A sump pit drainage system includes a sump pit, a sump pump and a discharge pipe. The sump pit, set into the basement floor, collects water from the weeping tiles around your basement. The pump pushes the water outside your house through the discharge pipe

Place your sump pump discharge pipe so that it:

• drains somewhere onto your property where water can be absorbed, such as your lawn or flower bed; and
• does not direct water onto neighbouring properties, lanes, sidewalks, or streets.

Sump Pit

• Clean the pit each year after freeze-up. Weeping tile drainage may carry small amounts of soil, sand and debris into the pit from around your basement foundation.
• Some water may remain in the pit and cause a musty smell if it sits for a long time. If so, you can flush the pit by adding fresh water until the pump removes the stale water.

Sump Pump

• Check and test your pump each spring before the rainy season begins, and before you leave your house for a long time. Pour water into the pit to trigger the pump to operate.
• Remove and thoroughly clean the pump at least once a year. Disconnect the pump from the power source before you handle or clean it.
• Check the pit every so often to ensure it is free of debris. Most pumps have a screen that covers the water intake. You must keep this screen clean.

Sump Pump Discharge Pipe

• Check the place where the discharge pipe leaves the house. If the pipe is discharging right against the basement wall, the water will drain down into the weeping tiles and continue to recycle through the system.
• Check the discharge point regularly to make sure that nothing is blocking the flow.
• If your pump runs frequently in the winter, and the resulting ice is causing hazardous conditions on the lawn and sidewalks, call your municipal office.

Backwater Valve
A backwater valve is a device that prevents sewage in an overloaded main sewer line from backing up into your basement. The valve automatically closes if sewage backs up from the main sewer (Figure 5). A properly installed backwater valve must be placed so that sewage backup will be stopped and not come out through other outlets in your basement, such as sinks, toilets, showers and laundry tubs.

• Make sure that you can get at the valve at all times.
• Check the valve regularly and remove any material that may prevent the valve from operating properly.

You will normally require a permit and inspection to install a back flow valve and sump pit. Since part of the basement floor will be dug up and since proper placement of these items is important, we recommend that you use a qualified plumbing contractor.

Additional Protection Measures

There are also several additional flood protection measures that may be considered.

Plumbing Fixture Maintenance

Have a qualified plumber inspect all floodproofing devices and plumbing fixtures (i.e. sump pumps, backwater valves, floor drains, etc.) regularly to ensure proper operation. Check the operating instructions for more detailed information and safety guidelines, or ask your plumber to explain the details of your system to you.

Backup Sump Pump

Severe storms are often accompanied by power blackouts. A battery powered backup sump pump may be a prudent investment. Most pumps are made to fit in beside the main sump pump and also have an audible alarm that warns the main pump has failed so that you can attend to its repair or replacement. There are also water powered backup sump pumps available that run by water flowing through the pump impeller.

Basement Finishes and Furnishings

In the event a risk of basement flooding is still possible, it is advisable to install impermeable floor and wall finishes, such as ceramic tile, to lessen damage and make cleanup easier. Make sure basement furniture has legs that keep the furniture fabrics above any accumulated flood water. Area rugs are a good alternative to full broadloom as these can be removed and properly cleaned in the event of flood damage.

Insurance — Just in Case

Insurance that fully covers basement flooding damage is an important means of financial protection to homeowners.
Most policies include or can include coverage for damage caused by sewer back-up. Make sure your policy includes sewer back-up insurance.
Check regularly with your insurance agent or broker to ensure you have appropriate and adequate insurance coverage, including any extensions in coverage that may be available, which were not previously attached.
Keep a detailed inventory of your residence. It will be invaluable in the event of loss.
Make sure your insurance policies and related records are in a safe location and easily available after an emergency or disaster event.

The "Ins and Outs" of Air Exchange (HRV) Systems - how to service and check

Your Air Exchanger, also known as a heat recovery ventilator (HRV) can help make your house a clean, healthy living environment, while keeping fuel bills down. But your HRV can't do all this without your help.

It only takes seven simple steps to keep your HRV happy…

The Seven Steps to a Happy HRV

Step 1: Turn Off Your HRV
First, turn off your HRV and unplug it.

Step 2: Clean or Replace Air Filters
Dirty or clogged filters can lower ventilation efficiency. Try to clean your filters at least every two months. Filters in most new HRVs can be easily removed, cleaned with a vacuum cleaner, then washed with mild soap and water before being replaced. Older units have replaceable filters. If your HRV is easily accessible, this is a five-minute job.

Step 3: Check Outdoor Intake and Exhaust Hoods
Remove leaves, waste paper or other obstructions that may be blocking the outside vents of your HRV. Without this vital airflow, your HRV won't function properly. During winter, clear any snow or frost buildup blocking outside vents.

Step 4: Inspect the Condensate Drain
Check to see if your HRV has a condensate drain — a pipe or plastic tube coming out of the bottom. If it does, slowly pour about two litres of warm, clean water in each drain pan inside the HRV to make sure it is flowing freely. If there's a backup, clean the drain.

Step 5: Clean the Heat Exchange Core
Check your HRV owner's manual for instructions on cleaning the heat exchange core. Vacuuming the core and washing it with soap and water will reduce dust that can build up inside the core.

Step 6: Clean Grilles and Inspect the Ductwork
Once a year, check the ductwork leading to and from your HRV. Remove and inspect the grilles covering the duct ends, then vacuum inside the ducts. If a more thorough cleaning is required, call your service technician.

Step 7: Service the Fans
Remove the dirt that has been accumulated on the blades by gently brushing them. Most new HRVs are designed to run continuously without lubrication, but older models require a few drops of proper motor lubricating oil in a designated oil intake. Check your manual for complete instructions.

Your HRV should be serviced annually. If you are not comfortable doing it yourself, contact a technician accredited by the Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Institute of Canada (HRAI). Make sure the technician you call has been trained by the manufacturer of your HRV.

Check Your HRV Balance: the Garbage Bag Test

HRVs need to be balanced, with the fresh air flow matching the exhaust flow. If you do not know if your HRV was balanced when installed or if you have changed or added HRV ducts, you may want to check the balance with the following simple procedure. This test will take about 10 minutes.

Use a large plastic bag, typically 1.2 m (48 in.) long. Untwist a wire coat hanger. Tape the wire to the mouth of the bag to keep it open. You now have a garbage bag air flow tester. Go outside to where your HRV ducts exit the foundation.

Step 1
Crush the bag flat and hold the opening tightly over the exhaust hood. The air flowing out of the hood will inflate the bag. Time the inflation. If the bag inflates in eight seconds or more, go to Step 2. If the bag inflates in less than eight seconds, turn your HRV to a lower speed, and repeat the test. Then go to Step 2.

Step 2
Swing the bag to inflate it and hold the opening against the wall around the HRV supply hood. The air going into the HRV will now deflate the bag. Time the deflation.

Figure 1 — Test your HRV balance with an inflated bag

If your HRV is balanced, air going into the HRV will balance the air coming out of the HRV.

The inflation and deflation times should be roughly equal. If you find that the bag inflates twice as fast as it deflates, for instance, your HRV is unbalanced. If you can’t see a problem with the filters that would cause such an imbalance, you should call a service person to test and adjust your HRV.

Please don’t ignore your HRV! Just a little bit of your time is all it takes to keep it running smoothly.

The easy maintenance program below can be taped directly onto your HRV. Simply check off each box as you complete the indicated task.

Easy Maintenance Program

To start your easy maintenance program, simply disconnect the electrical power source, then open up the front panel.
April or May ()

• Turn the dehumidistat (the adjustable control on many HRVs that activates the HRV according to relative humidity) to the HIGH setting or to OFF.

September or October ()

• Clean core and check fans
• Check condensate drain
• Check grilles and ducts in house
• Reset dehumidistat (40 – 80 per cent)

MAINTENANCE CHECK LIST

Year:				Year:				Year:
	Clean filter	Clean hood screen	Other		Clean filter	Clean hood screen	Other		Clean filter	Clean hood screen	Other
Jan				Jan				Jan
Mar				Mar				Mar
May				May				May
July				July				July
Sept				Sept				Sept
Nov				Nov				Nov

Figure 2 — Get to know your HRV — this is what a basic HRV looks like from the inside

Monessen Fireplaces and Inserts Recalled

Public Meeting Scheduled for the King/Victoria Street Transit Hub in Kitchener

This building will be the centre for Grand River Transit, the Light Rail Transit System, Go and Via....and will change the face of Kitchener and affect the Waterloo Region for years to come.

A Public Consultation Centre has been scheduled to share the results of the King/Victoria Environmental Assessment (EA) and get your input.   November 20, 2012, 4 to 7 p.m. Region of Waterloo Administration        Headquarters 150 Frederick St., Kitchener   The Ontario government requires the Region to conduct an EA to assess potential impacts of the construction and operation of the Transit Hub. An EA is a regulatory process required for all significant transportation infrastructure projects.   If you are unable to attend the PCC, the display boards from the meeting and a comment form will be posted on the Region's website at regionofwaterloo.ca/transithub. For more information on the Transit Hub EA, please contact Shiva Tiwari at stiwari@regionofwaterloo.ca.

Ontario Boards May Close High Schools as a Result of Teacher Job Actions

A growing number of Ontario school boards are considering closing down high schools as teachers escalate their job action – refusing to supervise students outside the classroom, enter report-card grades into the system and fill in for absent colleagues.

On Monday, the Ontario Secondary School Teachers’ Federation gave the green light to 20 local unions, including teachers with the Toronto District School Board, Canada’s largest, to launch strike action after it failed to reach an agreement with the province. Teachers are not expected to walk out, but will limit their duties to exclude administrative tasks and supervision outside the classroom.

The escalation comes as elementary teacher union locals are expected to be in a legal strike position later this month. Teachers are opposed to a controversial law, which forces a wage freeze, cuts teachers’ sick days and limits their right to strike.

In response to the increased job action, some boards have taken special measures – from hiring extra security personnel to monitor hallways to restricting student activities outside the classroom – in hopes of averting locking out teachers. But in light of growing tensions and failed last-ditch negotiations between the provincial government and the secondary school teachers’ union, the prospect of the school year thrown into jeopardy appears imminent.

Fearing for the safety of students, some boards, including Upper Canada District School Board in eastern Ontario and Trillium Lakelands District School Board in cottage country north of Toronto, quickly moved to hand senior administrators the authority to lock out high school teachers and close down schools if the situation turns dire.

“Boards will go to great lengths to keep schools open because they don’t want to interfere with student instruction. But if safety is clearly compromised, then they have no choice but to close a school,” said Geoff Williams, director of labour relations for the Ontario Public School Boards’ Association.

Ken Coran, president of the Ontario Secondary School Teachers’ Federation, said locking out teachers will severely compromise the education system. “If that were to happen, it raises the stakes,” he said. “I would hope that the public would see where the blame lies – and believe me, it’s not with the education workers. We’re trying to make the best of a bad situation.”

Teachers say the strike action is intended to target administrators, not students. Still, limiting teacher-supervision during lunch and in the hallways has officials nervous about student safety.

One school board took extraordinary measures to ensure safety wasn’t compromised. The Greater Essex County District School Board, which includes Windsor schools, has hired extra security staff to help monitor cafeterias and hallways. “We’ve got at least one extra security staff in every high school,” said Scott Scantlebury, a spokesman for the board.

Halton District School Board, meanwhile, is restricting activities that take students out of the classroom – things like field trips and professional development – in order to compensate for the fact that teachers are refusing to cover for colleagues who need to step out of the classroom for any reason.

And the Toronto District School Board has encouraged principals to hire extra clerical staff to help complete and distribute midterm report cards, as union leaders have directed members not to input grades into the board’s computer system. Midterm reports “may be delayed at some schools and not delayed at others,” said board spokesman Ryan Bird.

Many school boards said the first day of job action Monday had minimal impact on students. But Greg Pietersma, chairman of the Upper Canada District School Board, said the situation remains tenuous.

“For the next few days we should be able to keep the schools open. We’ll be reviewing it on a day by day basis,” he said.

As teachers scale back, many of the duties they are abandoning are falling to principals who are raising concerns about student safety. Ken Arnott, president of the Ontario Principals’ Council, said supervision between classes, in hallways and recreational areas, is a major concern. He said most school boards have developed contingency plans to help cope, but that those plans are not sustainable long term.

“Without adequate supervision bullying, vandalism, graffiti, and other behavioural issues increase,” he said. “As students get a sense that there are fewer eyes and ears out there we might see an increase in those issues.”

Since early September, teachers have been pulling back on volunteer activities – things like coaching, clubs and parent-teacher meetings – in protest against Bill 115. Students, like Hirad Zafari, who attends Toronto’s Don Mills Collegiate, said the tension has permeated into the classroom.

“As a student, I feel as though this may be not the best year to be in school, especially in Grade 12,” said Mr. Zafari, who is also a student trustee. “As students, we don’t know what’s going to happen tomorrow or what’s going to happen the next week.”

Article from the Globe and Mail

5 Questions Young Home Buyers Need to Ask.

 

Believe it or not, even in these rough economic times, the average age of the first time home buyer has been gradually decreasing. In 2008 the average age was 35 years old, and in 2011 the average age dropped to age 30.

I think of all the people I know that bought a home in the last few years and most of them are 30 years old or younger, which has raised the question: are they different challenges to first-time home buyers because of their age?

It turns out, yes, different circumstances call for different situations, and if you’re a 30 something or younger individual thinking of buying a home, here are some things you need to consider.

1.) Do I have a substantial down payment? An obvious challenge of buying a home at a younger age is clearly not having as much time to save money for a down payment as your older counterparts. A smaller down payment means a higher monthly mortgage payment, which is often why so many people choose to wait a few years more to save up enough money in order to have a monthly payment they can afford.

2.) What will my mortgage rate be? Part of the criteria in applying for a loan is job stability, meaning you need to show that you have been working at a particular job for a long amount of time. For many 20-30 year olds, the length of time they have been at a job is particularly small simply because they haven’t been a part of the workforce very long. It’s perfectly natural to skip from job to job to job during your college years, as you often have different requirements that need to be met (class schedule, moving, wage changes, seasonal work, etc.). However, this doesn’t particularly reflect well when applying for a home loan.

3.) Are my expectations realistic? Many young home buyers simply have no idea just how much certain features cost. A “decent amount of space” might be a completely unreasonable requirement for a 25 year old looking for an affordable place to live in Toronto. Let’s be honest, the words ‘Toronto’ and ‘affordable’ don’t often appear in the same sentence.

4.) Am I ready? Every first time home buyer will need to ask themselves this question, but a young home buyer especially. A younger individual usually has more variables in their life. Are you in a stable job that you will most likely stay in (or even want to stay in) for the next 10 years? Are you sure you won’t have to move (career, relationships, family issues) in the next 10 years? In addition, research has shown that the brain isn’t even fully mature until around age 25, so are you sure you will even want to still own a home in a few years?

5.) Am I able to put in the work? For any first time home buyer, you have to be ready to put in a little bit of elbow grease, but for a younger home buyer, you really need to be ready to do some home renovation projects. A smaller down payment and a likely higher mortgage rate means you will probably have to limit your search to homes that need a little bit of work, and you’d better be ready (read: have the energy and skills) to fix it up a bit.

If you are considering buying a home, why not contact me and we can chat about your options.

2013 Budget Talks by the City of Kitchener Could Increase User Fees

It will cost more to get married, buried and just about everything else in between as city staff tabled plans Monday to increase user fees by an average of three per cent or about double the current rate of inflation.

City councillors began 2013 budget preparations Monday with a long list of increases to user fees.
At this point, the proposed tax-rate increase stands at 2.8 per cent, but it’s already clear some councillors will be trying to reduce that by one percentage point.

Some green fees for city-owned golf courses are going up by 23 per cent, to $32. Renting an ice pad and change room for a skating party is increasing 23 per cent, to $395.50. Getting buried in a city-owned cemetery for an adult in a standard grave is going up 6 per cent, to $1,175.20.

User fees are second only to property taxes as a source of revenue for city coffers. Last year, the city collected $99 million in property taxes and $17.5 million in user fees. When all revenues are included, the operating budget this year totals about $144.4 million.

Before the 2013 budget is struck on Jan. 17, the city plans to hold a public input session on Jan. 7. People can also post questions on Monday, Dec. 10, at 1 p.m., when the city’s chief of financial planning, Ryan Hagey, will answer questions online. There is a dedicated phone line at 519-741-2602.

In his presentation Monday to city councillors, Hagey made it clear staff expects the increased user fees to be approved and in place by Jan. 1.

Coun. Yvonne Fernandes wanted to know why the proposed tax-rate increase and the user-fee hikes are all running ahead of the inflation rate. Hagey said a survey of 170 residents showed a majority of people are willing to pay a tax-rate increase between two per cent and 2.5 per cent.

Coun. Bil Ioannidis said that for the past 10 years, the inflation rate has averaged 2.5 per cent and city councillors need to take that long-term view when setting budgets.

Coun. Dan Glenn-Graham asked about the inflation rate that impacts municipalities, which buy more fuel, asphalt and construction materials than individual consumers. As a result, the inflation rate for cities is significantly higher than the inflation rates for households and consumers, Glenn-Graham was told.

Months ago, city councillors asked staff to prepare a list of changes and spending cuts that would reduce the planned tax rate increase to 1.8 per cent, down from the proposed 2.8 per cent.

The suggested changes include:

• Reducing the fire department staffing through attrition to save $428,000.
• Collect payments from insurance companies when firefighters save a property. This could bring in $200,000 a year.
• Change the way asphalt repairs are done on roadways, saving $128,000.
• Change the way bills are sent out and processed for natural gas, water, sewers and stormwater fees, saving $60,000.
• Savings for $50,000 a year are possible with a new way of handling sick-leave claims.
• Remove the bulk garbage bins from the downtown, saving $29,000.

“All of the options are feasible, although they each carry some risk or impact on existing service levels,” says a staff report.

The preparation of the 2013 budget continues on Thursday with an overview of next year’s capital budget. This covers the building of new infrastructure and upgrades to existing buildings, roads and parks.

On Dec. 6, councillors will review the 2013 operating budget, which covers the city’s day-to-day expenses.

The increased user fees — including marriage licenses, burials in city cemeteries, dog licences, swimming lessons, ice-pad rentals — and other budget information can be viewed at www.kitchener.ca/2013budget.

Total Residential Home Sales in Kitchener - Waterloo up 11.6% in October

Area home sales rebounded in October, with 500 homes trading through the Multiple Listing System.  Residential sales in October are up 11.6 percent compared to last month’s results, and increased 4.6 percent from October 2011.

All You Need to Know About Choosing Paint Colours for Your Home When Selling...

To select the right color for each room of your home to maximize impact for showings and open houses , design experts recommend applying the following strategies.

1. Coordinate with the room's use. Certain colors lend themselves to certain activities. For example, studies show that kitchen and dining areas painted in "food colors"—such as celery green or red—increase appetite, whereas blue acts as an appetite suppressant. On the other hand, the tranquility evoked by blue makes it ideal for bedrooms.

2. Paint for the season. Color directly impacts your senses, making a room's temperature feel cooler or warmer. For example, bring in warm colors—such as reds, oranges, and yellows—in the fall and winter months, and cooler colors—greens, blues, and purples—during the spring and summer. To save yourself some hassle, paint just one accent wall in a room, or bring out the season-appropriate colors using accessories such as throw pillows or a vase of flowers.

3. Use a directional approach. The effect of color on perceived temperature also means that the direction a room faces should influence color choices. North-facing rooms may not feel as warm and inviting to buyers because they don't get as much sunlight, an impression that can be lessened by painting them a warm color. If you have a very warm room that is facing south, and you want to cool it or calm it down, use cooler hues of blue or green.

4. Harmonize. You can also use color to provide a sense of order and balance in a home. Using variations of the same color throughout a house, rather than painting every room a different, contrasting color, provides a sense of flow from one room to another and doesn't distract buyers' eyes.
 Color is always a very personal choice. So color choices can be subtle. A color doesn't have to be McDonald's yellow or Red Roof Inn red to be noticed. It can be a derivative or a subtle tint or tone of those particular colors to create the warming effect buyers want in a home.

Use the Color Wheel to Mix & Match

Remember learning about the color wheel in grade school? This 12-step circular rainbow graphic shows the relationship among colors and can serve as a helpful guide in choosing what colors to mix and match in a home to get pleasing results. Here's a refresher.

The color wheel is broken down into three main categories: primary (foundation colors used to create all other colors), secondary (created by combining two of the primary colors), and tertiary (formed by combining a primary and an adjacent secondary color).

To mix and match colors easily, you can use the color wheel in one of two ways:

1. Complementary Two colors that fall directly opposite one another on the color wheel (e.g. red and green, blue and orange, and yellow and purple). They create a maximum contrast and can be visually intense.

2. Analogous Color schemes that consist of any three colors located side by side on the color wheel (e.g. yellow, yellow-orange, and orange). One of the three colors usually dominates. This color scheme can add depth and energy to a room.